Renter's guide
How to Hang Pictures in a Rental Without Losing Your Bond
You've found the perfect place, unpacked your stuff — and now your walls look like a waiting room. Here's how to make your rental feel like home without putting a single hole in the wall, and without worrying about your bond for a second.
What Australian tenancy law says about picture hooks
Before we get into the products, it's worth knowing where you actually stand legally. Across most Australian states and territories, tenants are permitted to make "minor modifications" to rental properties — but the definition of "minor" varies significantly by state, and landlord permission is often required.
The safest interpretation: any modification that leaves permanent marks, holes, or damage can be deducted from your bond at the end of a tenancy. Landlords in states like NSW have broad discretion over what counts as fair wear and tear versus damage.
Queensland renters now have the right to make minor modifications (including picture hooks) under the 2024 Residential Tenancies Act changes, but must restore walls at the end of the lease. In Victoria, NSW, and WA, you should check your specific lease terms. When in doubt: no-drill is always the safe option.
The cleanest solution — and the one that removes all legal risk entirely — is to use adhesive-based mounting products designed to leave no trace. That's exactly what this guide covers.
Step 1 — Know your wall surface
This is the step most renters skip, and it's the main reason adhesive products fail. Different wall surfaces have very different properties when it comes to adhesion. Here's a quick breakdown:
| Surface type | Adhesive strips | Suction cups | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Painted plaster | Excellent ✓ | Moderate | Most common rental surface. Clean the area first for best hold. |
| Ceramic tiles (smooth) | Good ✓ | Excellent ✓ | Avoid grout lines. Suction cups are ideal for bathroom tiles. |
| Glass & mirrors | Moderate | Excellent ✓ | Smooth glass is suction cup territory. Clean thoroughly first. |
| Painted brick / textured | Poor ✗ | Poor ✗ | Standard adhesives won't bond to texture. Ask us for specialist options. |
| Timber / wood panelling | Good ✓ | Moderate | Works well on smooth finished timber. Avoid raw or rough-sawn wood. |
| Wallpaper | Avoid ✗ | Avoid ✗ | Adhesive products can damage wallpaper on removal. Don't risk it. |
If you're unsure what surface you have, run your fingernail across it. Smooth and slightly chalky = painted plaster (great for adhesives). Rough or gritty = textured or masonry surface (needs specialist products).
Step 2 — Choose the right no-drill product
Not all adhesive products are equal. Here are the main categories and when to use each:
Adhesive picture hanging strips
The workhorses of no-drill hanging. Strips come in interlocking pairs — one side goes on the wall, one goes on the frame — and they grip firmly once pressed together. They're rated by weight capacity, so always check the pack before hanging something heavy.
Best for: Picture frames, canvases, mirrors up to 5kg, corkboards, lightweight shelves.
NoDrill Co. Picture Hanging Strips — Heavyweight
Holds up to 7.2kg per pair. Works on painted plaster, tiles, glass, and timber. Removes cleanly with zero wall damage.
Shop picture strips →Adhesive wall hooks
Single-hook solutions for keys, coats, bags, and lighter items. Many come with a pull tab for clean removal. Look for hooks that list their weight capacity clearly — anything up to 4kg is reliable on most painted plaster walls.
Best for: Keys, bags, coats, lightweight art, fairy lights, jewellery, cable management.
Suction cup mounts
Ideal for smooth non-porous surfaces like tiles and glass. Modern suction technology holds significantly more weight than the old cheap versions. The key is a perfectly clean, dry surface and a good initial seal.
Best for: Bathroom accessories, shower caddies, mirrors on tiles, hooks on glass doors.
Tension systems
Floor-to-ceiling tension rods and shelf systems that use pressure against the floor and ceiling rather than any adhesive at all. Zero wall contact, completely removable, and surprisingly sturdy when assembled correctly.
Best for: Tall shelving, room dividers, curtain rails, coat stands.
Step 3 — How to hang pictures correctly
Even with the best product, incorrect application is the number one reason things fall off walls. Follow these steps and you'll get a reliable hold every time.
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1
Clean the surface thoroughly
Use a lint-free cloth with rubbing alcohol or a dedicated surface prep wipe. Even clean-looking walls have dust, grease, and oils that prevent adhesion. This step makes the difference between something that holds for years and something that falls off in a week.
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2
Allow to dry completely
After cleaning, wait at least 1 minute for the surface to fully dry before applying your adhesive product. Moisture is adhesion's enemy.
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3
Press firmly and hold
Apply the strip or hook and press firmly against the wall for 30 full seconds. Press across the entire surface area, not just the centre. This activates the adhesive and creates a proper bond.
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4
Wait before loading
Leave it for at least one hour before hanging anything. Overnight is even better, especially in humid rooms like bathrooms. The adhesive continues curing for up to 24 hours after application.
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5
Check your weight limits
Never exceed the stated weight limit on the product packaging. If you need to hang something heavier, use more strips — and distribute the load across multiple mounting points.
Hanging heavy things without drilling
This is where most renters give up and reach for a drill. Don't. Modern adhesive technology has come a long way, and with the right approach you can hang items up to 10kg without any fixings whatsoever.
For heavy items, always distribute the load across multiple mounting points. Four strips each rated to 2kg is significantly more reliable than one strip rated to 8kg, because the load is spread and no single point of failure can bring everything down.
For heavy mirrors (3–8kg), use at least four heavy-duty picture strips and ensure the frame or backing has a smooth, flat surface for the strips to bond to. Many large frames have textured or carved backs that reduce adhesion — a small piece of smooth-surfaced tape on the back of the frame first solves this.
What about very heavy items (over 10kg)?
If you're looking to hang a large mirror, heavy artwork, or a floating shelf that needs to hold real weight, tension-based systems are your friend. Floor-to-ceiling shelf units, for example, can hold 20–50kg without a single fixing — purely through compression.
For items over 10kg that must be wall-mounted, we'd recommend contacting your property manager and requesting permission for a single anchor point. Most will agree if you commit to professional-grade patching on exit.
How to remove adhesive strips safely (to protect your bond)
Correct removal is just as important as correct application. The biggest mistake renters make is pulling the strip off quickly at a perpendicular angle — this almost always takes paint with it.
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1
Locate the pull tab
Every adhesive strip has a small tab at the bottom edge. Do not skip this — pulling from any other point risks damaging the wall surface.
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2
Pull slowly at a low angle
Stretch the tab straight down, parallel to the wall surface. Go slowly — this should take 20–30 seconds, not 2. The slower you go, the cleaner the removal.
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3
Keep it parallel to the wall
Never pull the tab outward (away from the wall). Always maintain a low angle, almost sliding the strip along the wall surface as you pull down.
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4
Wipe away any residue
A tiny amount of adhesive residue is normal. A clean cloth with a small amount of rubbing alcohol removes it without touching the paint.
In cold weather, adhesive strips become less flexible and are more likely to snap instead of stretch during removal. If your home is cold (under 18°C), warm the strip with a hairdryer for 20–30 seconds before pulling. This keeps the adhesive pliable and dramatically reduces the risk of wall damage.